The Best Penne alla Vodka

Method

How it goes together

1. 01

   Step 1

   Bring a large pot of generously salted water to the boil. Cook the penne to al dente following the packet directions.

   The water is the only chance to season the pasta itself, and pulling it at al dente leaves enough bite to survive the toss in hot sauce. Keep some of the water back before draining, it is the tool that brings the sauce together later.

2. 02

   Step 2

   While the pasta cooks, heat the oil and butter in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté the onion for about 5 minutes until soft, a little browning is fine.

   Butter with the oil gives flavour without the milk solids catching, and five minutes takes the raw bite out of the onion so the sauce tastes sweet rather than sharp.

3. 03

   Step 3

   Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds.

   Garlic only needs a moment in hot fat to lose its raw edge; any longer and it turns bitter.

4. 04

   Step 4

   Pour in the vodka and let it bubble for about 30 seconds.

   The bubbling drives off the harsh alcohol and lifts the browned bits from the pan, leaving the vodka's job of carrying tomato aroma behind.

5. 05

   Step 5

   Stir in the tomato paste until smooth.

   Frying the paste in the fat darkens it and cooks out the tinny raw-tomato flavour, which is where the sauce gets its depth and colour.

6. 06

   Step 6

   Stir in the cream and drop the heat to medium-low. Let the sauce warm through and thicken, this can happen within a couple of minutes, or cook it a little longer for a thicker sauce.

   Dropping the heat before the cream goes in stops it splitting, and gentle warming lets the fat and tomato come together as one glossy sauce.

7. 07

   Step 7

   Season with salt and pepper. Stir in fresh basil if using. Toss the sauce with the drained pasta, thinning with a splash of hot pasta water first if needed. Serve with grated parmesan if you like.

   Tossing pasta and sauce together in the pan lets the starch on the pasta bind the sauce to it; a splash of the hot cooking water loosens the sauce without watering down the flavour. Basil off the heat keeps its perfume.